In your latest book Into The Silence you trace the connection between the Great War and the attempts by British climbers to scale Mount Everest in the early 1920s. Can you tell us more about this?
The fundamental story of Mallory and Irvine is well known, especially to people in Britain. Famously, on 8 June 1924, on the third attempt on their third expedition to Everest, George Mallory, the most illustrious climber of his age, and the young undergraduate Sandy Irvine were famously seen crossing the northeast ridge of Everest going for the summit, when the mist rolled in and they dissolved into memory and myth.
The question that has always haunted mountaineers and historians of the mountain is whether Mallory got to the top or not before he met his end. From the very start I was less interested in that question than the issue of what was the spirit that carried these men on. I knew from their age, their class and their background that a big percentage of the 26 men who went to Everest on those three expeditions of 1921, 1922 and 1924 would have gone through the agony of the Western Front in the Great War. It wasn’t as if I was suggesting they were cavalier about death, or that they deliberately courted death, but they had seen so much of death it had no mystery for them. Death had nothing more to teach them, save that of their own. In a sense they were prepared to take risks on the mountain that might have been unimaginable before the war because for all of them, and indeed for all of that generation, life mattered less than the moments of being alive. And so that was the idea I had when it came to the story.
It’s fascinating how Everest evolved in the British imagination. The British had lost the race for the North and South Poles and so Everest, looming over the Raj, became known as the third pole. And in a sense the initial attempts to climb Everest were a gesture of redemption for an empire of explorers who had famously lost the races to the North and South Poles. But in the wake of the war, it became more of a mission of regeneration for a nation and a people who had been bled dry.
Can you tell us more about how living through the Great War affected the climbers?
The war had affected every aspect of these men’s lives. Twenty of them saw the worst of the war. Jack Hazard, who climbed to the top of the north col in 1924, did so with bleeding wounds from the Somme soaking the tunic of his climbing gear.
One of the things that we have to remember about going to Everest at that time was that it was almost the equivalent of going to the moon today. People spoke of polar expeditions, but Everest was the equivalent of a polar expedition but one in which every step forward took you to a zone of death where oxygen deprivation obliterated consciousness. So this was an extraordinarily challenging thing and the climbers quickly came to understand that if they were to get to grips with the mountain in these conditions you have to be prepared to accept a level of risk, even at the risk of your own obliteration, as one of them put it.
So I think they came to recognise that they were playing in a different ballpark, and what I think is so fascinating is that entire generation had, in a sense, come to play in a different ballpark. One of the most powerful social realities of Britain after the war was the chasm that existed between those who had seen the front and had fought in the trenches versus those who stayed at home and continued to revel in its imagined glories, profiteering from the war in many cases.
This seems a good moment to talk about your first book, Testament of Youth, as Vera Brittain recalls in her memoir about going up to Oxford after the war and the difficulty she had studying with other women who had not experienced the tragedy and suffering that she had.
To me, Testament of Youth is simply one of the finest, most heart-rending and most moving memoirs – not just of the Great War, but of any conflict. Women often spoke of the war and their losses through the metaphor of dance. Nancy Cooper famously said that “by the end of 1916 every boy that I had ever danced with was dead”. Vera Brittain simply said: “There was no one left to dance with.”
Vera Brittain really personified this extraordinary chasm that existed between those who had gone through the experience of the war and those who hadn’t. And she also personifies the agony that Britain in general went through during the war. She had one beloved brother, Edward. When her father was going to send him to university but not her, her brother said he wouldn’t go unless Vera could go too. So they were very close. Her brother had been a star athlete and he, like all of his class, who were overwhelmed by an almost mystic patriotism in 1914, marched off to war. Within months he was writing letters back to Vera outlining in incredibly graphic detail the horror of the trenches. He fought at the Battle of Loos in September 1915, which has been overshadowed by the later debacle of the Somme and the horror of Passchendaele. But the Battle of Loos was horrific.
Over the course of the war, Vera becomes a nurse and goes from being this protected middle-class Edwardian girl to dealing with the dead and the dying for months on end. She would lose one by one her two best friends from university, her fiancé, and finally her brother. Testament of Youth is really the most powerful account of that transformation from innocence to experience and her transformation, of course, in so many ways echoes that of Britain itself. This is why, to this day, the Great War is a fulcrum of modernity. A single bullet into the breast of a prince in Sarajevo sparked the greatest catastrophe in the history of humanity. People often focus on World War II, but as [Winston] Churchill so eloquently said the Second World War was but the continuation of the first. He called it the 30 years war and famously said that never was a war less necessary to fight than the First and more essential to win than the Second.
Wade Davis is explorer-in-residence at the National Geographic Society in Washington DC. He is the author of 15 books, most recently Into The Silence: The Great War, Mallory and the Conquest of Everest. In 2009, he received the Gold Medal from the Royal Canadian Geographical Society and he is the 2011 recipient of the Explorer’s Medal, the highest award of the Explorers Club