The Notorious MSG’s Unlikely Formula For Success

In praise of monosodium glutamate. It makes food taste great. So why is it demonised? Partly because of the “Chinese restaurant syndrome” scare 40 years ago; partly because MSG is heavily used in cheap industrial foods. But the “syndrome” is probably bogus; and the umami taste of MSG is the height of food fashion. Top chefs are using it again — even if “Everyone’s so afraid of being outed that nobody wants to talk about it.” (5,800 words)

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